London in December: Christmas spirit & more

Do you want to explore London during the Christmas season or in winter? Then you’re in the right place!

In December 2023, we spent a prolonged weekend in London with 3 nights. In this post, you’ll find out what to see there beyond the magical Christmas decorations during the cold season, where to stay, and how to spend your days. One of the most famous places in London is the street with the glowing angel decorations during Christmas season. But there’s much more to see and booking early can be worthwhile. So here’s how we spent our 3 days in detail:

Day 1: Kings Cross und Coal drops yard

Once we arrived at the airport, the city center was easy to reach by train. We started the day with a train ride to Liverpool Street and breakfast at Grind. The café was quite busy, so a reservation can make sense. A walk gave us our first feel for the city, and we continued toward Kings Cross StationHarry Potter fans, take note: at the station, you’ll find the world-famous Platform 9 3/4, a huge Christmas tree, and a Harry Potter souvenir shop. However, this is mainly a tourist attraction, and you need to queue and pay for a photo at the platform. From the side, you can at least get a free photo just of the platform as you can see below.

After that we went to Coal Drops Yard which offers many cafés, shops, and bars. We visited at midday, but we’d recommend going in the evening, as it’s likely livelier then. After a stop at the cozy café Notes, we checked into our accommodation The York and ended the evening at Flat Iron. We highly recommend the steak there. If you want to be sure of a table, make a reservation.
Our accommodation was near Kings Cross Station, so well connected, but not very central, as we always relied on the train to get around. On the plus side, it was more affordable compared to other options. We noticed it was no longer available on Booking.com, so we’ve listed some alternatives for every budget below.

Day 2: famous sights, Christmas spirit & Kew Gardens

We started our second day with a croissant and coffee at Blank Street before heading to Piccadilly Circus. We strolled through the city, getting a feel for bustling London. Of course, sights like Buckingham PalaceBig Ben, and Westminster Abbey were on the list. Near Westminster Abbey, you’ll also find the Supreme Court and St. Margaret’s Churchyard, both impressive for their architecture. From there, we walked toward Elizabeth Tower and the London Eye. A ride on the London Eye costs £29/person online (about €33), which felt a bit expensive to us and the queue was long as well. There’s also the option to buy fast track tickets online for £44/person (about €50), allowing you to skip the regular line and save up to 60 minutes of waiting time.

While wandering through the city, we discovered the Southbank Centre Winter Market, which was a hidden gem for us with its many food stalls and pop-up bars. The small Christmas market runs every year from early November to early January, open throughout the week, and is a great alternative to the relatively expensive restaurants.

Afterwards, we wanted to explore some Christmas highlights in London, starting with Covent Garden. It’s beautifully decorated, both indoors and outdoors, during the winter season. If you stroll from there toward the Theatre District and St. Martin’s Lane, you’ll find more beautifully decorated streets, cafés, and restaurants. We then walked toward Leicester Square, where there’s another Christmas market full of different stalls, plenty of food, and mulled wine. This market also runs every year from early November to early January. We finished the evening wandering down Coventry Street, which is also decorated for Christmas, and made a stop at another Harry Potter store.

One of our highlights of the second day was Piccadilly Circus, where you’ll find Regent Street with its famous Christmas angels, which look especially magical in the evening lighting up the city. But beautiful Christmas lights aren’t just found there: head to the Soho District, for example to Carnaby Street, to see the famous Carnaby Universe, which illuminates the street at night. There, we took a break at Shoryu Ramen. The restaurant and its ramen are highly recommended, though we had to wait a long time for a table. If you can plan ahead, we recommend making a reservation to save yourself the long wait.

To finish the day, we took the train to the Kew Gardens. Every year, from around mid-November to early January, the Christmas at Kew exhibition lights up the entire park with different illuminations, decorations, and light displays. Along the circular route, there are also food and mulled wine stalls. However, this walk costs £34.00/person (about €39) and is especially popular on weekends. It’s best to buy tickets in advance for your preferred time slot. Tickets can be conveniently purchased online on the Kew Gardens website. We were lucky to get tickets via Ticketswap, but these are often more expensive and there’s no guarantee of availability for your desired time slot.

There are three different entrances, and depending on how and where you arrive, you should choose the right one. For trains or buses, the Elizabeth Gate is recommended, for the Underground the Victoria Gate, and for cars the Brentford Gate (parking must be booked in advance). More important information can be found directly on the Kew Gardens website.

Was it worth it? The illuminated walk was a lovely evening activity, but we personally felt the price, with almost €80 for two people, was quite high for “just” a decorated and illuminating park (drinks and extras are not included). Additionally, reaching the gardens can be a bit tiring during a short stay, as it’s located outside central London.

Day 3: Bond Street, London Soho & the Tower Bridge

We started our last day near London Bridge at Queenswalk, where we headed to Winter by the River. This is a popular Christmas market along the Thames, located between the two famous bridges, London Bridge and Tower Bridge. This market runs daily from mid-November, featuring a wide variety of stalls with food, mulled wine, and crafts making it the perfect place to stroll.

Afterwards, you can visit the Tower Bridge. You can either examine it from the outside, like we did, or explore it from the inside. Adult tickets start at £16/person (about €18) and can be purchased online, for example on the Tower Bridge website. The same site also offers “quieter time” tickets for a less crowded visit, costing the same but not always available. If you cross the bridge from the side of the Christmas market, you reach the Tower of London, a historic castle and UNESCO World Heritage site. You can tour it inside or, like us, just view it from the outside. Adult tickets start at £35.80/person (about €41).

From the Tower of London, you can walk to the famous Leadenhall Market, a covered market with boutiques, restaurants, and bars. Some scenes from Harry Potter were filmed here. Nearby, you’ll also find the Bank of England. From there, we took one of the iconic, red double-decker buses toward Goodge Street. A double-decker bus ride in London is definitely worth it, as it’s a great way to see the city without walking and to take in a lot along the way.

We tried PaStation here—a small, charming restaurant that feels more like a fast-casual spot, where pasta is practically produced on an assembly line. We loved the cozy atmosphere and affordable food. If you’re in the area it’s worth a stop for a quick lunch. Afterwards, we headed to London Mayfair, mainly for strolling and to admire the spectacular Christmas decorations and illuminated luxury shops on Bond Street in the evening. We ended our last night with a delicious Neapolitan pizza at Pizza Pilgrims. Reservations are recommended here as well.

Our verdict on London

There is so much to see and do in London. During the Christmas season, the city and its neighborhoods light up with countless decorations and there’s something to discover around every corner. However, it can get very cold in winter, and a city trip, for us, always involves a lot of walking, exploring, and activities which isn’t ideal in colder weather. Our days were very full, and by the end, we felt quite overwhelmed by all the sights, experiences, and the kilometers we walked, sometimes up to 25km per day. With more time, fewer activities and by using public transport, such as buses, you can definitely enjoy London in a more relaxed way.

Restaurant & Café Recommendations

  • Flat Iron – good steak; reservations recommended
  • Shoryu Ramen – very tasty ramen near Carnaby Street; expect long waits without a reservation
  • PaStation – affordable, very small restaurant with good pasta; ideal for a quick lunch
  • Pizza Pilgrims – excellent Neapolitan pizza; reservation recommended
  • Heddon Yokocho – Japanese restaurant; the ramen is highly recommended

Café Recommendations for London

  • Grind – popular breakfast café with a wide selection; reservations recommended
  • Notes – popular and cozy café, perfect for relaxing on cold days
  • Blank Street – a chain, great for a quick grab-and-go breakfast

Market & Food Court Recommendations in London

  • Coal Drops Yard – many restaurants, bars, and shops; especially recommended in the evening for the lighting
  • Southbank Centre Winter Market – small Christmas market with plenty of food stalls and pop-up bars near the London Eye
  • Covent Garden – beautiful Christmas decorations and a variety of restaurants and bars; can get very crowded
  • Leicester Square Christmas Market – larger Christmas market with many different stalls
  • Winter by the River – popular Christmas market along the Thames, between London Bridge and Tower Bridge
  • Leadenhall Market – covered market with many boutiques, restaurants, and bars

Accommodations

  • Coal Drops Yard – many restaurants, bars, and shops; especially recommended in the evening for the lighting
  • Southbank Centre Winter Market – small Christmas market with plenty of food stalls and pop-up bars near the London Eye
  • Covent Garden – beautiful Christmas decorations and a variety of restaurants and bars; can get very crowded
  • Leicester Square Christmas Market – larger Christmas market with many different stalls
  • Winter by the River – popular Christmas market along the Thames, between London Bridge and Tower Bridge
  • Leadenhall Market – covered market with many boutiques, restaurants, and bars

Tips for Your London Trip

  • Weather in Winter – London can get extremely cold in winter, so we recommend dressing warmly with gloves, a hat, a warm jacket, a scarf, and good footwear
  • Shoes – As with most city trips, we walked many kilometers (sometimes 20–25 km/day), which can cause blisters. Comfortable, sturdy, and warm shoes are essential (and bring blister plasters just in case)
  • Train – There are different “pay as you go” ticket systems, which are usually cheaper than buying single or day tickets, as you top up a balance and only pay for each trip. There is also a Visitor Oyster Card, usable on almost all public transport, which you can even order in advance to your home. Check the webseite to see what makes the most sense for your stay.
  • Christmas at Kew Gardens – very popular; tickets should be purchased early
  • Stansted Airport – arrive early and head straight to the security lines. The airport layout is complex, and you may need to take a train within the terminal, so allow extra time

where to stay in London

Accommodations in London are rather expensive. The more central the location, the more expensive. Since our accommodation wasn’t particularly central, and we therefore spent a lot of time on public transport and walking, we recommend an accommodation in the city center. Please note that some of the budget options are outside the city center. We tried to find accommodation in London for every budget:

$ budget
$$ mid-range
$$$ luxury stays

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